Sorting your jewellery: what’s valuable?
By Lisa Millwood, Expert Gemmologist & Registered Jewellery Valuer - Australia
Whether you’ve inherited a jewellery collection, stumbled upon a box of old pieces during a clean-out, or are downsizing a loved one’s estate, it can be overwhelming knowing what to do — especially if you have no knowledge of jewellery.
Should you keep it? Donate it? Get it insured? Before making any decisions, it's important to sort and identify what you’re dealing with. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the basics of sorting jewellery, how to distinguish fine from costume pieces, and why involving an expert is essential to avoid costly mistakes.
What’s the Difference Between Costume Jewellery and Fine Jewellery?
One of the most important steps in sorting jewellery is understanding whether a piece is costume or fine. The distinction isn't just about appearance — it affects the piece’s value, insurability, and long-term durability.
💎 Fine Jewellery
Fine jewellery is made from precious metals and often features genuine gemstones. These pieces are typically higher in quality, craftsmanship, and value — both sentimental and monetary.
Materials used:
Precious metals: gold (9ct, 14ct, 18ct, etc.), platinum, palladium, and sterling silver
Gemstones: natural diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, opals, pearls, and other genuine stones
Characteristics:
Usually hallmarked or stamped with metal purity (e.g. 750 for 18ct gold)
Heavier than costume pieces due to the density of precious metals
Stones are securely set, not glued
Designs are often more refined and durable
Typically bought from jewellers or passed down as heirlooms
Can hold or increase in value over time
Why it matters: Fine jewellery should be professionally valued for insurance, estate planning, or resale. Failing to identify a fine piece could lead to accidental loss, donation, or under-insurance.
📿 Costume Jewellery
Costume jewellery — also known as fashion or imitation jewellery — is designed to be affordable and decorative rather than valuable.
Materials used:
Base metals: brass, copper, aluminium, or low-quality alloys
Plating: thin layers of gold or silver tone applied over base metal
Imitation stones: glass, plastic, acrylic, resin, or synthetic crystals
Characteristics:
Often unsigned or marked with brand logos rather than metal purity
May tarnish, chip, or flake over time
Lightweight, sometimes hollow or glued together
Stones are usually glued in rather than claw or bezel set
Available in chain stores, fashion boutiques, or vintage collections
Important note: While not made from precious materials, some vintage costume jewellery is highly collectible — particularly signed pieces by designers like Trifari, Weiss, Coro, or Haskell. These can still have monetary and collector value.
Still Not Sure? Here's Why Expert Help Matters
Some pieces blur the lines — for example:
Gold-plated silver or rolled gold (a layer of gold over base metal)
Synthetic gemstones that mimic the real thing
Antique or vintage jewellery with worn hallmarks or obscure stamps
Without professional tools and training, it’s very easy to misidentify fine jewellery as costume, or vice versa.
As a qualified gemmologist and registered valuer based in Tasmania, I can:
Accurately test metal content using non-invasive methods
Confirm whether stones are natural, synthetic, or imitation
Identify collectible costume jewellery brands or vintage makers
Help you sort confidently and avoid costly mistakes
Based in Tasmania? I Can Help
As a fully qualified gemmologist and jewellery valuer based in Tasmania, I offer expert, independent assessments to help you:
Sort and understand your jewellery
Identify valuable items
Ensure accurate insurance cover
Avoid giving away or misplacing inherited treasures
Whether you're dealing with a single ring or an entire collection, I can guide you through the process with clarity and care.
Ready to Book a Jewellery Assessment?
Visit www.lisamillwood.com.au to book a consultation or get in touch.