Resizing an Antique Engagement Ring: What You Need to Know
By Lisa Millwood – Gemmologist & Jewellery Valuer
An antique engagement ring is more than just a piece of jewellery — it’s a tangible connection to history, romance, and craftsmanship. But what happens when the ring you’ve fallen in love with doesn’t quite fit? Whether it’s too loose, too tight, or you've inherited a ring from a loved one, resizing an antique engagement ring can seem like a daunting task.
As a professional gemmologist and valuer, I often get asked: “Can you resize antique rings without damaging them?” The answer is yes — but with care, expertise, and the right jeweller.
Let’s explore everything you need to know about resizing antique engagement rings: what’s possible, what to avoid, and how to protect your treasured piece.
💍 Can Antique Rings Be Resized?
In most cases, yes — antique rings can be resized. However, unlike modern rings, they often require specialised care due to:
Older metal alloys
Delicate gemstone settings
Intricate craftsmanship (like filigree or engraving)
Structural fragility due to age
It’s crucial to work with a jeweller who understands the nuances of antique and vintage jewellery. A general jeweller may not have the expertise to preserve the ring’s integrity during the process.
🛠️ How Are Antique Rings Resized?
There are typically two methods:
1. Sizing Down
This involves removing a small portion of the band and rejoining the ends. The join must be invisible and secure — especially with engraved or patterned rings, where designs may need to be re-etched or matched seamlessly.
2. Sizing Up
If the ring is too small, it may be:
Stretched slightly (only suitable for minor adjustments and plain bands)
Cut and a new piece of metal added — the most common and secure method for larger adjustments.
🔍 Factors That Affect the Resizing Process
✦ Metal Type
Gold (especially 18ct) is malleable and usually resizes well and gold price is at an all time high at the moment.
Platinum is tougher to resize.
Silver is soft but can tarnish if not handled correctly.
Antique rings may use unusual alloys or old solder techniques that modern jewellers must identify before proceeding.
✦ Gemstone Settings
Rings with gemstones (especially soft stones like opals, emeralds, or pearls) require extreme care. Heat used during resizing can damage stones or loosen their settings.
Sometimes, stones must be removed and reset to protect them during the process.
✦ Design Complexity
Filigree, engraving, millegrain, or patterned bands all require a skilled hand to ensure the design is preserved after resizing. Some ornate designs make resizing limited or more labour-intensive.
💡 What If the Ring Can’t Be Resized?
Certain rings — such as full eternity bands or rings made of tungsten or titanium — cannot be resized traditionally. In these cases, alternatives include:
Wearing it on a different finger
Adding sizing beads (to make it smaller)
Creating a replica in a new size
Remodelling the ring while retaining original stones and elements
💰 How Much Does Resizing Cost?
Resizing antique rings generally costs more than resizing modern rings due to the extra skill and care required. Factors include:
Metal type
Complexity of design
Number and type of gemstones
Amount of resizing needed
In Australia, expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $500+, depending on the specifics of the piece.
🛑 DIY Ring Resizing: A Word of Warning
There are many online tools and kits promising “at-home” resizing. I strongly advise against this — especially for antique jewellery. The risk of permanent damage or loss of value is far too great.
Always entrust your antique ring to a qualified jeweller with experience in antique or vintage pieces.
✅ Before You Resize: Important Considerations
Get a Professional Valuation
Resizing can affect a ring’s value. It’s wise to have it valued before any alterations are made — for both insurance and peace of mind.Photograph the Ring Beforehand
Capture close-up photos of the condition, settings, and hallmarks. This helps in case of any changes or disputes.Ensure It’s Insured
Make sure your engagement ring is insured before it leaves your sight — especially if it’s a family heirloom.Communicate Clearly with Your Jeweller
Explain exactly how much resizing you need. Ask what method they’ll use and how they’ll preserve any detailing or hallmarks.
💎 Antique Ring Resizing: My Professional Advice
As someone who works with antique jewellery daily, I believe that resizing — when done thoughtfully — is an act of preservation, not alteration. A well-fitted ring is not only more comfortable but safer and more wearable for daily life.
Whether it's a Georgian cluster, a Victorian turquoise piece, or an Art Deco platinum solitaire, I can provide guidance on:
Assessing resizing feasibility
Recommending a trusted antique jeweller
Providing certified valuations for insurance
✨ Need Help Resizing Your Antique Ring?
I offer independent jewellery valuation and consulting services to help you make informed decisions about resizing or restoring your antique engagement ring.
📍 Based in Australia – available for in-person consultations and remote advice
💌 Contact me here
🔍 Explore valuation and jewellery services
Let’s ensure your engagement ring fits beautifully — and retains its history for generations to come.