Gold, Platinum & Beyond: Understanding Jewellery Metals and Their History
As a gemmologist and valuer, I often see how the choice of metal can transform a piece of jewellery — not only in appearance but in durability, wearability, and emotional value. Metals have played an integral role in jewellery throughout history, with each type offering its own unique story, benefits, and aesthetic.
In this post, I’ll take you through the rich history of jewellery metals, from the origins of gold and platinum to modern preferences like white gold. I’ll also explain how different purities of gold work, how certain metals wear over time, and what suits your skin tone best.
🌍 A Brief History of Jewellery Metals
Gold has been used in jewellery for over 6,000 years. Ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman societies prized gold for its natural beauty and resistance to tarnish. Its malleability made it easy to work with, though pure gold (24ct) was often too soft for everyday wear, prompting the development of gold alloys.
Silver was also widely used in ancient times, particularly for coins, ornaments, and more affordable jewellery. Though beautiful, it tarnishes easily and requires regular upkeep.
The Invention of White Gold
White gold is a relatively modern invention, first developed in the early 20th century as a more affordable alternative to platinum, which had become increasingly popular in the Art Deco period. By alloying yellow gold with white metals such as palladium, nickel, or manganese, jewellers created a paler tone that could mimic the cool, silvery sheen of platinum.
Today, white gold is still in high demand and is more expensive than platinum, often enhanced with a layer of rhodium plating to give it a bright, mirror-like finish.
When Did Platinum Enter the Jewellery Scene?
Platinum was first used in South American ceremonial jewellery around 2,000 years ago, but it wasn’t until the 18th century in Europe that it gained prominence. It became especially fashionable in the early 1900s, particularly during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods. Platinum is loved for its strength, purity, and naturally white colour, making it an ideal choice for engagement rings and heirloom pieces.
🔬 Understanding Gold Purity: 9ct, 18ct, 22ct
Gold purity is measured in carats (ct), with 24ct representing pure gold. However, pure gold is soft, so it is often alloyed with other metals for strength and durability.
9ct Gold (37.5% pure gold): Durable and affordable, but less rich in colour.
18ct Gold (75% pure gold): The most popular balance of purity and strength. Offers a deep gold tone while being durable enough for everyday wear.
22ct Gold (91.6% pure gold): Rich and vibrant but softer, making it better suited for intricate or traditional jewellery rather than rings that take frequent knocks.
The choice depends on lifestyle, budget, and personal preference. For everyday wear, 18ct is generally ideal in terms of durability and richness.
⏳ How Metal Types Can Help Date a Piece of Jewellery
When assessing antique or vintage jewellery, the type of metal used is one of the most telling clues in determining its age and origin. Metallurgy trends — like fashion — have changed over time, often influenced by historical events, economic conditions, and technological advancements.
Here’s how metal choice can help date a piece:
🔍 1. High-Carat Gold (22ct, 24ct) – Pre-20th Century & Cultural Traditions
Usage: 22ct and 24ct gold were more commonly used in ancient and traditional jewellery (especially in South Asian and Middle Eastern cultures).
Dating Clue: High-carat gold may indicate either an antique origin or a piece made for cultural ceremonial use, rather than Western commercial jewellery.
🔍 2. 15ct Gold – Victorian to Early Edwardian (UK)
Usage: Common in British jewellery from 1854 to 1931.
Dating Clue: If you see a 15ct gold stamp, it almost certainly places the item within this historical window.
🔍 3. Platinum – Early 1900s Onwards
Usage: Began appearing in fine jewellery in the late 1800s, becoming especially popular during the Edwardian (1901–1910) and Art Deco (1920s–1930s) periods.
Dating Clue: Heavy platinum settings with detailed filigree or geometric styles often point to the Art Deco era.
🔍 4. White Gold – Post–1920s
Usage: Invented in the early 20th century, white gold gained popularity in the 1920s and 1930s as a more affordable alternative to platinum.
Dating Clue: Jewellery described as white gold that predates the 1920s is likely either misattributed or later modified.
🔍 5. Palladium – Wartime Substitution (1940s)
Usage: Used in place of platinum during WWII, when platinum was reserved for military use.
Dating Clue: Palladium rings are often found from the 1940s, particularly engagement rings produced in this period.
🔍 6. 9ct Gold – Common in Post-War Jewellery (Mid–20th Century Onwards)
Usage: Widely used in the UK and Australia from the mid-20th century for affordable, durable jewellery.
Dating Clue: Stamps like "9ct" or "375" are typically found on jewellery made from the 1950s onward, especially in mass-market pieces.
⚙️ Maintenance and Durability: What to Know
Not all metals are created equal when it comes to strength and upkeep:
Platinum: Extremely durable and resistant to wear. It develops a natural patina over time, which can be polished if desired. It is heavier than gold and ideal for securing valuable gemstones.
White Gold: Requires rhodium plating every 12–24 months to maintain its brightness, as the underlying gold alloy may yellow over time.
Yellow Gold: The most classic choice and relatively low maintenance, especially in 18ct or 14ct forms.
Rose Gold: Alloyed with copper, it is durable and develops a warm, vintage patina over time.
Sterling Silver: Prone to tarnish and scratches, but easy to polish. Great for fashion jewellery but less ideal for everyday fine jewellery.
👩🦳 What Metals Suit Which Complexions?
Choosing the right metal can enhance your natural features. Here's a general guide:
Cool Undertones
Look for: Silver, white gold, platinum
Skin appears: Pink, red, or bluish
Best with: Diamonds, sapphires, aquamarines
Warm Undertones
Look for: Yellow gold, rose gold
Skin appears: Golden, olive, or peachy
Best with: Citrine, garnet, peridot
Neutral Undertones
Look for: You can wear almost any metal!
Skin appears: A mix of both cool and warm
Best with: Personal preference and gemstone colour coordination
Of course, personal style and sentimental value always outweigh rules — if you love it, wear it.
📋 Jewellery Metals Comparison Table
💡 Notes:
9ct gold is harder than 18ct, due to higher alloy content.
White gold is not naturally white – it’s yellowish and relies on rhodium plating.
Platinum and palladium are naturally white, and hypoallergenic, making them ideal for sensitive skin.
Metals like silver and stainless steel are often used in costume or fashion jewellery due to cost-effectiveness.
💎 Final Thoughts
The world of jewellery metals is as nuanced and rich as the gemstones they hold. Whether you’re selecting a wedding ring, heirloom piece, or something for everyday elegance, understanding the history, properties, and suitability of different metals ensures your jewellery is not only beautiful — but lasting.
If you're ever unsure which metal best suits your lifestyle or a specific gemstone, I’m here to help.
Explore more insights, valuations, and services at www.lisamillwood.com.au.