Lustrous Legacy: The History and Value of Pearls in Jewellery
Pearls have captivated humanity for thousands of years — prized by royalty, coveted by collectors, and revered across cultures for their soft, ethereal glow. Unlike other gems formed in the depths of the earth, pearls are born in water, their beauty shaped by nature and, more recently, human innovation.
As a gemmologist and valuer, I often assess pearl jewellery not only for its material worth but also for its cultural and historical significance. This post explores the rich history of pearls, the revolution of cultured pearls, and how to distinguish between premium varieties like South Sea, Tahitian, and Akoya, versus more common freshwater pearls.
🐚 A Short History: Pearls as a Symbol of Power and Purity
Pearls have been treasured since antiquity — long before cutting and faceting transformed the way we value gemstones. In ancient Persia, Egypt, Rome, and China, pearls were considered rare symbols of wealth, purity, and divine favour. They were often more valuable than gold and were worn by emperors, queens, and aristocrats.
In fact, for centuries, natural pearls were so rare that they were reserved for royalty and the ultra-elite. Harvested from wild oysters in the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea, and the Gulf of Mannar, these natural pearls were often irregular and difficult to obtain — adding to their mystique and value.
💡 The Cultured Pearl Revolution: Mikimoto’s Breakthrough
The global pearl market changed forever in the early 20th century when Kokichi Mikimoto, a Japanese entrepreneur, perfected the technique of culturing pearls. In 1893, he successfully produced the world’s first cultured pearl by inserting a nucleus into an Akoya oyster and allowing the animal to coat it with nacre.
By 1916, Mikimoto had patented the process, and by the 1920s, cultured pearls had become commercially viable. This innovation made pearls more accessible to the broader public without sacrificing beauty. Mikimoto pearls are still regarded as among the finest Akoya pearls today.
🧬 Understanding the Main Commercial Pearl Types
Modern pearls are almost exclusively cultured, and their quality depends on species, origin, size, shape, surface, lustre, and nacre thickness. Here’s a breakdown of the most highly valued commercial pearls:
🐚 South Sea Pearls
Origin: Primarily Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines
Size: Typically 10–16mm, can exceed 20mm
Colours: White, silver, champagne, and golden
Lustre: Soft, satiny glow
Nacre Thickness: Very thick; often over 2mm
Notes: Considered the most valuable due to their large size, rarity, and luxurious lustre. Australia is a leading supplier, particularly of white and silver varieties.
🌊 Tahitian Pearls
Origin: French Polynesia (particularly Tahiti)
Size: Generally 8–15mm
Colours: Natural dark tones including peacock green, aubergine, grey, and black
Lustre: Strong, metallic shine
Nacre Thickness: Generally thick and durable
Notes: The only naturally dark-coloured pearls. Their exotic hues and bold character make them a favourite for statement jewellery.
🌸 Akoya Pearls
Origin: Japan and China
Size: Typically 6–9mm
Colours: White, cream, rose overtone, and silver
Lustre: High mirror-like shine
Nacre Thickness: Thinner than South Sea or Tahitian, but still elegant
Notes: The most traditional pearl type, especially for classic strands and earrings. Known for their perfect roundness and brilliant lustre.
💧 Freshwater Pearls (Contrast)
Origin: Mainly China
Size: Varies widely (2–12mm)
Colours: White, peach, pink, lavender (often dyed)
Lustre: Soft to moderate; less reflective than saltwater pearls
Nacre Thickness: Solid nacre, but may lack lustre and symmetry
Notes: Abundant and affordable. Freshwater pearls are ideal for fashion jewellery but are generally less valuable due to irregular shapes and lower shine.
💎 Value Factors to Consider in Pearl Jewellery
As a professional valuer, these are the critical factors I assess when evaluating pearls:
Lustre – The shine and reflectiveness of the surface
Nacre Thickness – Determines durability and depth of glow
Size – Larger pearls are rarer and more valuable
Surface Quality – Fewer blemishes mean higher value
Shape – Round pearls are most prized, though baroque (irregular) styles are artistic
Colour & Overtone – Desirability depends on rarity and demand
📊 Pearl Comparison Chart
👩⚖️ Final Thoughts: A Pearl’s Worth Goes Beyond Price
Whether you’re inheriting a strand of Akoyas, buying a South Sea pendant, or considering a Tahitian ring, pearls hold enduring elegance. Their value depends not only on origin and quality but on expert evaluation — especially when considering insurance, resale, or historical interest.
As a gemmologist and certified valuer, I provide professional assessments to help you understand the true worth of your pearls — and the stories they tell.
Visit www.lisamillwood.com.au to book a consultation or learn more about pearl valuations and jewellery heritage.